It has been a long, fun weekend begining with an invite to dinner on Friday night. One of the intensive care nurses, Benina, generously invited those of us staying in the guest house to dinner. A bit of a panic Friday morning as I'd not met her and so she didn't know I'm a vegetarian (note - many take vegetarian to be someone who doesn't eat red meat only). She has a big house with huge gardens set on the outskirts of Mbale. The sun was setting as we arrived, and with the luxury of back-up power in the guest house, I'd forgotten how dark it can be. There were two candles lighting up the room. The room reminded me of home. It must have been the old British colonial influence as the ceilings were high, with picture rails and wooden panelled doors with old fashioned door handles & locks. Benina also invited her son, Giddeon, to join us - he's a guide in the local national park Mount Elgon. During the evening we also met other members of her family - 3 generations live in the house. Everyone is exceedingly polite - with lots of how are yous, pleased to meet yous, thank yous and you're welcomes. We ate off our knees with a small table in front and had some small (salted I think) nuts and pastry like things (made with maize flour and eggs) to start; tasty. This was followed by rice, some bitter tomatoes in a thick paste-like sauce made with finely ground (soya?) flour - it was described as food for people with no teeth - that's all I can say is that it was delicious. There were also some peas and bitter tomatoes in another sauce and some meat (beef probably). This was followed by a veg which grows like spinach but has the texture of cabbage and some rice. All finished up with fresh pineapple, watermelon and bananas. V filling. This was accompanied, and followed by, a lot of talk on politics. One of the guests is Tanzanian so there was a lot of discussion about what goes on in the respective countries and also about Kenya which is the other large country that forms part of the East African Community. It was interesting because I don't think I've ever heard people speak so postively about another nation's people before - v complementary about the Kenyan work ethic (compared to that in Uganda) for example. Much talk of the president and the economy too and how Uganda could catch up with it's neighbours. From what I've seen so far this seems impossible given the general culture and decision making by the President (for example he's just spent trillions buying 3 old jet fighters from the Russians - why? will he have trained pilots to fly them, weapons to put in them or a reason to use them?).
Went to Jinja on Saturday morning - this is a town located, not very far away looking on a map, but a few hours on the road. Jinja sits on the source of the river Nile. We took a taxi bus as all the proper buses had left. Not my ideal form of transport as they tend to be overloaded and the drivers drive as fast as they can. The taxibuses are like small minibuses and are supposed to carry up to 14 passengers. Our driver trawled about town for an hour (groan) until he'd managed to cram in 19 people. I passed over the dam at Jinja when I came from the airport but the taxi bus took a different route so I got to see different things. Just after we left Mbale we passed lots and lots of wooden stalls at the side of the road - selling bedsteads, mattresses, garden gates and..coffins. This gave way to fields and small villages. There were lots of small round (mud?) huts with thatched roofs. In many places there are half built brick houses - some with crops growing inside - I can't work out whether they are half built or just abadonned. The women had obviously been doing their washing as it was laid out on the grass to dry. Some of the huts had small hedges around them - like a garden. There were often lots of children running around playing. We passed quite a few schools but it made me think of the Friday night discussion on the economy and how could Uganda develop when there were no learning opportunities (apart from water collecting and similar chores) for children outside school and potentially no jobs after they had finished their schooling. Most jobs being in the towns/city mean that people flock there with no money, end up in (or creating) slum areas and so not creating the progression and economic prosperity that people are talking about. In fact, being a boda boda (motorbike) driver seems to be what many men do- hanging around all day in packs, on their motorbikes, giving lifts (for a fee). At one point we pulled into a district hospital to let some people off, next to the bus inside the hospital grounds was a woman lying on the ground with someone feeding her a bit of food,. Elsewhere people had set up camp with blankets and small fires for cooking. People have told me that in public hospitals one doctor often has 200 patients, and that nurses often come and go as they please. Care is very minimal and drugs are limited. In the Cure hospital where I work food is provided to patients to ensure that they don't set up camps and cause H&S risks and so that they are also well nourished - helping recovery. We pulled into a town (Iganga) at lunchtime to offload a few people (and cram in some more) and were swamped by people waving sticks of corn on the cob, chapattis and meat (or lumps of gristle) on a stick through the windows. After about 3 hours we arrived in Jinja. It was good to restore feeling to bits of my body that had gone numb!
In Jinja we met up with 2 Ugandans (1 had worked in the hopsital in June and was friends with Dr Shabani that I travelled with). This was good as Dr Sam knew the place and we also generally paid Ugandan prices rather than muzungu prices. After having a refreshing beer in a cafe (a Club beer, v nice, approx 65p) we rattled (literally, due to the state of the roads)to Bujagali falls. Here you could do white water rafting and bungji jumping. However we went a bit further along the Nile where there are lots of small falls. The water powers along at tremendous speed and force. There are locals that seek payment for throwing themselves into the water, coming out amongst a load of white froth a bit further on - so dangerous and life threatening for very small sums of money..... We took a small wooden boat (with motor and 'life jackets') a bit further along the river to see Jackson falls and to reach a small island in the middle of the Nile. For those who know what I think about being in a small boat - I tried not to be too scared! After getting back on dry land we went to the source of the Nile next to Victoria lake, here the river is much wider and free flowing (a bit more like it is in Egypt). Had some fresh tilapia fish and chips overlooking the Nile. Yum yum.
Went to a bar in the night 'Babez' - v loud music, pool playing, dancing and football. It was mostly men dancing (with rythym!!) - in fact it is mostly men out and about even in the day time. Most of the time I forget I'm a different colour to everyone else around me but it's quite diffcult to get used to being surrounded by so many men. Chilled out on Sunday until the return journey. We had the same mode of transport on the way back, although with only 15 people (and a couple of kids) crammed in. I think people must go to Jinja for their 'big shop' to stock up on things as the taxi bus was full of stuff. Again we spent about an hour or so waiting for the bus to fill - this was an opportunity to develop my patience - I'm not usually very patient at the best at times - I really wanted to offer the driver some money just to get going but I knew this wouldn't be the thing to do so I just sat and waited...and waited. I wonder if I will be able to maintain this level of patience when I get back home....... I don't know how many times I had the same torch waved in my face by the hawkers during this time - I lost count. Eventually we got going - pretty much the same as the journey down to Jinja- I was mentally blaming the woman next to me for the odour of fish that started pervading the van (it was getting quite warm in there!). However, after a couple of hours we stopped to let someone off (along with his 2 live chickens that unbeknown to me had been in the boot the whole time) when he left so did the fishy smell. phew. Was glad to get off after 3 and a half hours, get home and have a shower. Had a great time in Jinja and a very interesting weekend.
Picked up the Sunday papers on the way back; there was a full page spread in one of them 'an insiders view of why England's children are rioting an looting'. The article blames moral collapse for the riots, particularly blaming the Labour goverment for moral degredation and destroying the traditional nuclear family and identifying Harriet Harman as a 'ultra-feminist wrecker'. Interesting reading! I couldn't find the particular article on line but are there are others here if you're interested
http://www.monitor.co.ug/OpEd/Commentary/-/689364/689364/-/bk3620z/-/index.html
Right, time to go, will upload some photos of Jinja tomorrow